Day 1. Drove from Calgary to
Craig Montana and immediately hit the troutshop to arrange a shuttle. On the river by 2:00 or so. Nymphing was
rather slow and didn't see too many risers. Near the end of the day we
came across a nice pod of fish working the pmd hatch. Of course I didn't
have the right size for the hatch (these fish are pickyand I needed a
size 18) so the large browns that kept showing their fins didn't want
anything to do with me. I seen a smaller rise so I cast to the fish with
a generic adams that I bought a while back and wham.....a whitefish on
the fly. As you can tell, if I am talking about catching a whitedog on
the fly it must have been slow. Retired to the bar after cooking dinner
and met up with a real crazy cat. This fellow walks into the bar and the
nice gal behind the bar asked "Which one are you? Lewis or Clark?" This
guy was redneck beyond comparison. Totally decked out in buckskin from
head to toe. The guy even lit his hand rolled ciggy with the spark from
a piece of flint. Carried the flint in a large box right beside his
leather bound bottle of whiskey. Needed a couple for the drive back to
Helena. Needless to say...best to stay of Montana roads in the dark.
Then the 5 young gals at the bar who used to live in Wolf Creek
performed to the song "Hollaback girls" and that was pretty crazy. I'm
happily married but thought Harry might be in for an interesting evening
with these Hollaback girls:)
Day 2. Hit up Grizzly Hackle fly shop in Missoula. Decide on the Clark
Fork. We drove about an hour to the put in which was a HUGE grassy slope
of the side of a road that looks like dead man's curve. In fact, we had
to slide the drift boat down the side of a unbelievably steep embankment
to get to the water. I really didn't know if we would have to let go of
the boat and hope for the best. I guess the friction with the grass and
rock kept it from slipping out of our hands. Floated the Clark Fork
which is a beautiful river. Managed quite a few fish between the two of
us and came up to a fantastic pod of rainbows which were willing to take
our dry flys. That was the best part of the day. Nice thick healthy
fish. The banks along the Clark Fork are a drifters dream. I even
managed to do pretty well on the oars being a beginner so Harry was able
to fish quite a bit that day. Productive day and alot of fun. Now we
were glad about driving all the way to Montana.
Day 3: Have you seen Without a Paddle? Arrived at Grizzly Hackle around
noon. Questioned the great staff as to what might be the best area to
float on the Bitterroot. They tell us an 8 hour float from point A to a
place called "Steve I" or Stevensville. Get in the water and immediately
realize this is going to be somewhat of a challenge for even Harry to
navigate. Lots of rapids, sweepers (downed trees) and other obstacles. I
tried for a couple minutes and damn near flipped the boat so Harry
decided to take over. The river eventually became wider and had somewhat
less obstacles to contend with. We found a nice seam and a log jam in
the same general viscinity and both Harry and I began landing a number
of nice sized rainbow and browns. Many were in the 19-20" class and
thick as a brick. Some on the nymph and a couple on the dry. Harry found
a big ole pod of whitefish and couldn't keep them off. I advised him
there was a pill to take for the whitefish blues secretely wishing I was
having as much action on the river! Then we floated for a few more
hours. Starts getting dark. We see a bait fisherman and ask "How much
further to Steve I - floating that is?" The fellow answers "about a half
hour." We get out of the boat and start working some more runs thinking
it's only another half hour before our stellar day on the Bitterroot
ends. Harry hooks into a couple more trout that shake him off and then
BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMM! Some jerk lets of an Artillery Shell and I am
looking up at the mountains thinking Avalanche! Quite frankly, I have
never heard anything so loud. Now I know what the troops over in Iraq
have to listen to on a daily basis. How they can sell that much
gunpowder to a regular citizen is beyond my comprehension. Time to get
in the boat! We float the said half hour and come across a bridge that
looks like the one at Steve I (we had the common sense to check out the
takeout before embarking on our adventure). By this time its dark and we
cannot tell if its the takeout we are looking for. We float about 3
minutes past and decide to row back upstream along the bank to ensure it
wasn't the one. Nada. Hop back in the boat and I tell Harry to start
rowing fast. We just wasted some valueable time. Pitch black by now and
we cannot see 5 feet in front. Harry and I decide to continue as SteveI
cannot be that far away. Time to put the life jackets on. Now I start to
get a little whiney (yes I can admit it). I am scared and somewhat
confused as to how this could happen. I start thinking about the wife
and new daughter. Then I hear rapids. Then I start praying. Harry
advises me to remain calm. For the first time in my adult life I am
somewhat concerned for my life. I put my headlamp on with fresh
batteries and this improves the vision to about 6 feet. I continue
yelling...sweeper to the right, beaverdam to the left, fast water ahead!
Now we have floated for one hour in the dark. We see lights ahead. Oh
yes! It must be SteveI! Get closer to lights.....river takes a
bend....wilderness again. No lights. How can this be? We are about 11
hours into our float. Lights ahead again. Must be SteveI. Harry rows
like a madman to get to the lights. Lights suddenly fade off into the
distance. Back in the wilderness again. Suddenly the batteries in my
headlamp die. Back to 5 feet of viz. Should we pull over and light a
fire? Now I am getting cold but Harry is sweating because he is rowing
like a madman for what has been HOURS. I am thankful he is on the oars.
I look ahead "Harry! Go left!" All of a suddden BOOM! We hit a sweeper
and the driftboat starts to tip. Here it is we think. To die like a
couple of fools. My 33 birthday only 2 days away. Then I recall that is
the age jesus died. He was a fisherman. I start praying again. Now we
have drifted in the dark for a total of 2 hours. Harry continues to
navigate rapid after rapid, bend after bend. We have a little laugh
thinking about the movie "Without a Paddle." Then we see lights. I start
to well up with emotion. Come on SteveI. This is freaking ridiculous!
Half hour later we see a bridge. Please God let it be SteveI. Then we
realize we will live another day to fish the Bow. We see the cement
takeout. 2 and a half hours in floating in the pitch dark in a river
neither one of us know (I had been guided on it once about 7 years ago
in the daylight). We load the boat and suck back the last 3 beers in the
cooler. Budweiser never tasted so good. I thank Harry for remaining so
calm and getting me off the Bitterroot alive. Quite frankly the fella
was amazing behind the oars. I am quite confident he can float ANY river
in the daylight if he can do 21/2 hours in the dark. Moral of the story?
Be better prepared? Nah. The moral of the story is NEVER, NEVER TRUST A
BAIT FISHERMAN!!!
Finished the trip off with a nice drive along the Big Blackfoot. Cross
the continental divide and see the sign stating the coldest temperature
ever recorded in the USA. -65 i believe. Norman Maclean talks about this
area in the book we all know. Hope all is well and see you on the Bow in
the near future! Big Bugs!